I knew very little about Mainz before I came here, save for the fact that it was the capital city of its Bundestaat Rheinland-Pfalz, as well as the hometown of Johannes Gutenberg, and that it is one of Germany’s few Catholic cities.
I did not know that every February, people donning all sorts of costumes crowd the streets on Rosenmontag, the Monday before Ash Wednesday, or the beginning of Lent, shouting “Hellau!” at passers-by, and throwing confetti as massive floats carried on down the streets in Mainz’s infamous parade (featured also on television [channel: ZDF). I did not know that, on the evening of Rosenmontag, the cobblestone streets would be absolutely covered in broken glass from people smashing their empty bottles on the ground, because Mainz is one of three cities (Düsseldorf and Cologne being the other two) that really gets down for Karneval.
I had, of course, heard about the celebration of Karneval in Germany and elsewhere in Europe, mostly due to language textbooks and their multi-media counterparts (i.e. VHS) that showed groups of individuals dressed as clowns in the street, eating Bratwurst (mit Senf) and embracing their German heritage. But to actually see the madness was something completely different.
Heike, the director of the Middlebury program in Germany, hosted a party on Rosenmontag from her apartment that had a perfect view of the parade below. She bought streamers and confetti, and cooked Kartoffelsalat, Bratwurst, Brezeln, Herringsalat, and other various German dishes to be enjoyed while watching the Umzug live and on television. It was like a watered down version of the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade, minus the cartoon floats and Broadway performers. Most of the floats, in fact, were some sort of political commentary, including one of President Obama holding up the falling Statue of Liberty to “save” the US. The irony of that particular situation was that, as an American, I had decided to dress up as Lady Liberty. All of the Germans thought that was brilliant—but probably only because of that float.
Two weekends ago, I met up with another American, sans Lady Liberty crown: Sam Mansfield, a friend from Contoocook Valley Regional High School (say that five times fast....) who is now studying in Dijon, France. Since Sam had some time off, we decided to venture out to Strasbourg for a few days and get our share of Alsacienne culture. Unfortunately the first day, Friday, was rather rainy when we arrived, so Sam and I opted for a Le Musée Alsacienne instead of venturing around the city. We also tasted the cuisine of the region of Alsace that night when we feasted upon tartes flambées, or, for those of us who speak German, Flammeküche. Essentially, this delicious dish is a mix between a very, very thin crust pizza and a crepe…thin enough for you to fold up and snack on, but more hearty than your typical crepe. They were absolutely delicious, and Sam and I couldn’t get enough. The next day at lunch, after climbing up the renowned cathedral of Strasbourg and getting a splendid view of the city, we opted to eat tartes flambées yet again…and were hardly disappointed.
Later on, we decided to venture out to Königsburg, a restored castle outside of Strasbourg that sits on top of a mountain. The original castle, built sometime in the 12th century, was destroyed by Swedish troops. After Alsace became a part of the German Reich, Wilhelm II decided ca 1899 to restore the castle as much as possible to its original state. On a clear day, according to our taxi driver, one can see all the way to the Schwarzwald from the top of the castle. Either way, we got a great view of Selestat, the town below, and the castle itself was very impressive.
After indulging in a few more Alsacienne specialties that night and waking up in the morning to take a walk through a local park, it was time for Sam and me to part ways. It would only be one day later, however, that I would return to France…I just can’t stay away.
Now, normally I have travelled through Europe via Deutsche Bahn and RyanAir, an inexpensive airline based in Ireland that can, for example, get one to Morocco for about 20 Euro (one way, minus taxes and fees). It was only recently that the idea of travelling with a car seemed a feasible option—and I’m not only talking about hitchhiking. In Germany, there is a website, called Mitfahrgelegenheiten, where individuals post where they’re driving to, and through which cities, so they can share rides with those of us without cars or just looking to carpool. Last Monday, there happened to be someone travelling through Frankfurt to Grenoble, the temporary home to the legendary Andy, and also where one can find dozens upon dozens of ski resorts…or at least busses to said havens.
So, around 9:30 on a Monday morning, I met Johannes at the Frankfurt airport, to catch my ride to Grenoble, where Johannes also currently studies. It was great to share a ride with him and speak German for about seven hours straight, without one hint of English (except when he asked me how to say "sheep breeding" in English)—that is, until we arrived in Grenoble, and my French skills were put to the test.
Fortunately enough, most of Andy’s friends in Grenoble were echt Deutsch, and didn’t mind when, while speaking French, a German word entered into my vocabulary now and again. And, after spending significant time with our English brethren, I feel rather confident in my ability to understand what Andy would call “real” English (i.e. words like trousers, jumper, reckon, and an ambiguous word for eraser than shall not be shared). Almost confident enough, in fact, to pay Big Ben a visit.
Tuesday Andy and I went to Sept Laux, and Wednesday Les Deux Alpes, a huge ski resort where, as this season-pass holder to Crotched Mountain was shocked to discover, one can travel up in a either a “bubble,” a standard chair lift, or what Andy called an “egg”, or a giant box that fits about twenty people standing with their skis and snowboards. Needless to say, the views were breathtaking—the wind even more so.
Skiing in the Alps (which, by the way, I frequently reminded Andy that we were really doing, even though this was nothing new to him) was the best skiing I had ever done. Going back to the Snow Bowl next year is going to be a lot harder—I might have to upgrade, despite the free shuttle services and awesome student discounts. I’ve just gotten too darned spoiled.
The next day, Thursday, I proceeded to get lost in the woods of Grenoble on a run, getting in some more glimpses of the beautiful French landscape and a bit more incline that I’m used to since running along the Rhein everyday since October. Then, Thursday evening I climbed up the Bastille, racing, and failing to beat the sun as it set over Grenoble, but still getting to see an awesome view of Grenoble at night (Track 1: Lights, lights [dedicated to Nathan Williams]).
Friday, Andy and I met up with Yana, his friend from Bulgaria (who also speaks German) to build snowmen, make snow angels, and, most importantly, go sledding (or, in real English, sledging). It was important to enjoy the great outdoors as much as possible before 8:00PM, when I would catch a 12 hour bus ride to Frankfurt and, consequentially, a forty minute train ride home to Mainz. Convenient? Yes. As cool as hitchhiking or formally bumming a ride off of the internet? No.
Strasbourg--how much do you want to live in a house like this?
So we picked the wrong city to visit during Lent...
The spire of the cathedral in Strasbourg...because I do like those spires...
At the farmer's market on Saturday...we bought Brezeln and apples :)
This one's for Mama Q...
Mmm!
Bon Appetit, Sam!
Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Strasbourg
The organ...rather ornate!
The astronomical clock inside the cathedral--there is also a skeleton nodding his head, just like the one in Prague! Upper right...if you have good eyes.
Strasbourg from the top of the cathedral
Sam and I
I love those European streets...can't get enough.
Le Château du Haut-Königsbourg
A model of what the castle looked like before Wilhelm II ordered itsrestoration.
Knight in Shining Armor?
View of Selestat
Ok, I'm sorry, I can't help myself: Fire ze missiles! (or what have you)
Sam!
Notice the banner.
Parc de l'Orangerie
Ok, so there were storks everywhere. It must be a Strasbourg thing, because they were also on all of the postcards...city mascot?
St-Pierre-le-Jeune
View from Sept Laux...!
Andy!
So I only fell once...but I made it worth my while and took out that pole I'm holding along the way. Good thing I don't get embarassed. 
He's prepared.
The wind...oh how it howled. 
Les Deux Alpes
In the bubble!
Bottom of les Deux Alpes
View from Andy's flat...I'll say it one more time:I can't believe you live here!
The view while running...
Walking up to the Bastille...
...and the view!
The parade during Karneval
Begin: political commentary. "Defaulted bankers..."
Probably one of the more creative costumes I saw...one guy even had a "Bio," or organic, sticker stuck to his costume.
Steinbrück and Merkel saving auto companies...
This is what the float below (roughly) said: A Show of Strength
The whole world looks to him now
he's fighting against the ruin
Obama needs much courage and strength--
just look at what Bush left behind.
Proud to be an American
Sarah, dressed as the Cheshire Cat (slightly less controversial). So, for now, it's in Mainz I will stay--although currently Sarah and I are still pumped from St. Patrick's Day, and might make a post-March 17th showing in Ireland. Kiss me, I'm Irish.
Peace, love, baguettes and couscous,
Amanda
No comments:
Post a Comment